Welcome to Ahoy Beauty – articles about beauty products for people who care about their skin.
Hi! I’m Rachael and the author on this site. I’ve been using skincare beauty products for 20+ years (you do the maths!) so over this time, I’ve found some absolute gems (and some not so much!) I’ve written about my experiences to help you learn new tricks and tips. My thorough reviews are hopefully helpful enough to help you decide if a product is right for you or not.
Dermatica personalised skincare with Tretinoin Hydroquinone Niacinamide Azelaic Acid
Tretinoin is in the cream I’m getting in my Dermatica subscription to fight hyperpigmentation/melasma on my forehead. It’s strong stuff, so I’ve done research and thought I’d share my findings.
[Tretinoin is used for] Topical preparation to reduce hyperpigmentation of skin, such as persistent freckles, dark marks (lentigines) or melasma. Tretinoin works by increasing the skin cell turnover rate, which helps exfoliate the skin and improve the signs of photodamage.
from the leaflet in my Dermatica skincare subscription
Is Tretinoin a retinol?
Retinol and tretinoin are both retinoids (vitamin A) but tretinoin is more concentrated and therefore can give quicker results. It can also aggravate the skin more quickly as it’s stronger.
When I started Dermatica in May, the cream included 0.025% and it took 2 more months to take me up to 0.05%. I have recently reduced to 1 pump, instead of 2 at night, as my skin was feeling dry (it’s never dry) and slightly irritated. I took a few days off, with extra moisturiser, and it’s fine again.
You’re only able to get Tretinoin via a prescription, unlike retinol which is readily available online.
Being careful with retinoids
As with any intense skincare, such as retinoids, I personally take it day by day. As I’ve mentioned, my skin started to become irritated so I gave my skin a few days off and added lots of moisturiser to my morning and evening routine. Once I found my skin was back to normal and happy again, I introduced the cream again but only 1 pump this time instead of the usual 2. I’ve kept it at 1 as I feel that’s enough for my skin.
If this keeps happening, I’ll most likely ask Dermatica to reduce my subscription back down to 0.025% again.
What does Tretinoin do to the skin?
Tretinoin is used to treat skin conditions such as acne, scarring and hyperpigmentation. It helps to exfoliate the skin so although it helps with skin renewal, it can cause irritation because it’s so intense.
I use it in the evening before I go to bed. I put the cream on, then wait a few minutes (normally I clean my teeth) then I follow up with 2 moisturisers.
Since May, each monthly subscription has included Tretinoin and I’ve seen huge improvements to my melasma.
1st month on Dermatica, May 2023 – Tretinoin used 0.025% to treat melasma on my forehead/sides of cheeks 4th month on Dermatica, August 2023 – Tretinoin used 0.05%
Tretinoin with Hydroquinone
According to the leaflet I got with my Dermatica subscription, they both go hand in hand together.
Topical preparation to reduce hyperpigmentation of skin, such as persistent freckles, dark marks (lentigines) or melasma. Tretinoin works by increasing the skin cell turnover rate, which helps exfoliate the skin and improve the signs of photodamage. Hydroquinone is a depigmenting agent that interrupts the production of melanin pigment to help lighten the skin. Combining these active substances can help target and improve different skin concerns simultaneously.
Info from a leaflet in my Dermatica subscription
Using other products
When I use Tretinoin, I stay away from acids, such as salicylic acid or ascorbic acid (vitamin C) unless it’s in the morning (at a different time than using tretinoin).
I also moisturise more than usual, including lots of high SPF to give my skin as much protection as possible.
After returning from holiday, I had full-blown hyperpigmentation from sun damage across my forehead and down the sides of my face. It wasn’t anything I’d experienced, mainly acne and oily skin. This was entirely new for me so I had some investigating to do.
Nov 2022 – My hot, abroad holiday seemed to worsen my skin as you can see here. Lots of pigmentation, and dryness not to mention (undiagnosed) fungal acne
I’d always had a slight discolouration on my forehead after getting burnt a few years ago, but going on holiday in the sunshine not only gave me a tan, but made the melasma so much worse as you can see. My forehead and sides of my cheek came out worse – this is in November 2022 just after my holiday.
I had no idea what it was, so obviously Googled it and found it’s Melasma which is similar to hyperpigmentation, but even after reading a lot, I’m still not 100% sure what the difference is. I think Melasma is symmetrical whereas hyperpigmentation is in smaller, more condensed areas. As soon as Dermatica saw my photos, they instantly told me I need treatment for Melasma so that was that.
Dermatica offers personalised skincare with strong prescription ingredients, such as Tretinoin, which is what my formula includes, to reduce the melasma.
Different types of problems Dermatica can help you with – photo taken from the homepage
You start your consultation online by answering questions and uploading photos – this allows the Dermatica team to review to ensure they recommend the right products.
You upload photos every month or so into the online system so it’s really easy to look back and compare.
My progress photos in my Dermatica account
It’s a personalised service, which is one of the main things I was looking for. I wanted something to help that was tailored to me and matched my skin; I didn’t want something random from Boots or The Ordinary (although I love them) that’d be too harsh and worsen my skin. I wanted something to help as quickly as possible.
This is my Dermatica product – simple but nice packaging with a helpful leafletEach delivery includes a handy leaflet explaining the process and helpful information
What’s in the Dermatica personalised formula?
Your formula is personalised but I’m happy to share mine. I’m using Dermatica to ‘fix’ my melasma/hyperpigmentation.
This is why I was happy to go with Dermatica. The formula is personalised and tailored, meaning the formula is changed as my skin does. My skin has been using the above ingredients since my first order at the end of May (so let’s say June). My skin has had time to get familiar with the ingredients to reduce irritation before it changes.
3rd tube, July – Tretinoin 0.05% (increased from 0.025) / Hydroquinone 4% cream
4th tube, August – Tretinoin 0.05% / Hydroquinone 4% cream
My 5th month is going to be in October rather than September, as I’m a little behind in product so I can skip a month. October includes – Tretinoin 0.05% / Niacinamide 4% / Azelaic Acid 4%. I’ve been putting it on every night so I’m not sure how I’m so far behind. The product seems to last for ages even with the smallish tube.
Before and after pictures
When you first purchase, you upload 3 photos – front, left and right. These photos are what the experts use to determine what to put in your formula to fix whatever problem you’ve mentioned.
The photos are also kept within your online account, so you can refer back to see how far your skin has come. You aren’t likely to notice a difference when you’re looking at skin every day, so it’s nice to see the photos side by side (if not a bit cringe).
This is in my online account – you upload photos every month or so to easily compare and look back to see if your skin has improved
1st month of using Dermatica – May 2023
From the first photo at the top of this blog back in November when I got home from holidays, I waited a few months as I wanted to finish all of my existing products. You are advised to reduce using other products with Dermatica as they can affect the results. You can still use SPF and makeup though, see more info further down this blog.
2nd month of using Dermatica – June
The lighting is different but you can’t see much difference. It says on the website it can take anything up to 8 weeks to see a change.
July, below, is probably the most dramatic change.
3rd month of using Dermatica – July4th month of using Dermatica – August. These pics were taken just before my period so my forehead is more spotty than usual.
I’ll keep updating this blog with new months.
How long do the results take?
It says on the website results can take anything from 8-12 weeks. I saw a difference within 6 weeks but most noticeable after 2 months.
If you don’t see any results, you can get in touch with them to discuss and they will look at/change your formula. It’s personalised to you, so it should be working for you. If you aren’t seeing a difference, I’d double-check what else you are using – other products could stop Dermatica from working. Are you using enough product? I put at least 1 pump worth on each night before bed.
How and when do you use Dermatica?
I put one pump on my face before going to bed. I was using 2 pumps, but found my skin going slightly sensitive, so reducing back down to one has made my skin feel better again. I apply it then clean my teeth, giving the product at least 3 minutes to sink into my skin. I finish off with moisturiser.
How much is Dermatica and are there discounts?
Your first monthly order is £2.90 then it increases to £24.99 per month or you can buy as a subscription which gets you discounts, see the below photo (or use my discount code, see below).
Each month you get a tube of product which slowly changes to increase certain ingredients as your skin gets familiar with it.
Dermatica price options if you take out a subscription
Want a discount? Click on my link below to get your first month for £2.90 and 10% off your next one:
Click here to use my link then add ‘ahoybeauty’ to the discount box on the payment page – see below for what it should look like.
Can you use other products alongside?
They recommend you don’t, as it could stop Dermatica from working or interacting. You can still use it with SPF though, and make up.
Dermatica’s official stance is on their website:
The active ingredients that we use can increase the sensitivity of your skin. So, we recommend keeping your skincare routine simple. A cleanser, moisturiser and sunscreen are more than enough during treatment. Exfoliants and toners containing salicylic acid, AHAs, BHAs, glycolic or lactic acids should be avoided. They can increase the sensitivity of your skin, and our treatments will help to exfoliate the skin. Products containing retinols can promote further peeling, and should also be avoided. Vitamin C can be used in the morning if you apply your treatment at night, and hyaluronic acid is fine to use. You will get a guide on how best to integrate your treatment into your current regime. Our dermatology team are also available when needed to check on any other ingredients.
In Dermatica FAQs
See the Dermatica full FAQ section here.
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Estrid Dermaplaning Razor Kit - smooth skin by arching the razor in a light, downwards motion
I’ve dermaplaned my skin for years and I love it! Not only does it remove dead skin cells to make skin appear brighter, but it also removes the hair too, so anything you put on your face, like make-up, smoothes on better and stays on for longer.
Here’s how I use Estrid Dermaplaning Kit to get smooth skin. I use it once every few weeks and no, the hair doesn’t come back thicker/longer/darker.
You get 3 in a pack for under a fiver – the top folds in for safety and is great for travel (as it takes up less space) Estrid Dermaplaning Razor Kit – you get 3 in a pack for under a fiver
How do you start to dermaplane safely?
I practised on my leg first as it’s easy to nick yourself at the start when you aren’t familiar with how to use a razor. Your face has lots of small bumps and thin skin, so you need to be really careful. I still nick myself even now if I’m not paying attention.
I use the razor along with the hair – don’t go against the hair growth. Doing this you’re more likely to hurt yourself as there’s more resistance so it’s easier for the razor to move when it shouldn’t.
I usually start at the sides of my ears and slowly move back and forth until I get down to my chin on either side. I tend to do the fiddly bits (around my lips) last, as that’s when I’m most comfortable with the razor and less likely to nick myself.
Estrid Dermaplaning Razor Kit – smooth skin by arching the razor in a light, downwards motionVery comfortable to hold due to the nice shape of the toolI mostly love to shave the sides of my face, which collects the most but I also use around my lips, and to help shape my eyebrows (I hate plucking)Look at all that fuzz! So satisfying!! As you can see, the hairs are very thin and whispy – they haven’t changed or gone darker/thicker since I’ve started dermaplaning
I dermaplane after a hot shower so my pores are open, and I use soap or sometimes FaceTheory cleanser. I lather up the soap so it’s thick, then rub it gently into my skin. As the soap is thick, it stays on the parts I haven’t done yet, so it’s easy for me to see what skin I still need to do.
When I use soap, I can actually hear the hair being cut! Very satisfying if you like that kinda thing…
What about skincare afterwards?
If you have sensitive skin, you might need to moisturise lots afterwards as your skin might be sore. I personally don’t have sensitive skin, but I always make sure to use lots of moisturisers afterwards.
Does the hair grow back thicker, longer or darker?
I have light hair so it was never dark, but no, I can confirm it is the exact same as what it was before shaving. The colour is exactly the same, and so is the hair thickness. It doesn’t grow back longer either.
I dermaplane because I don’t like my lil’ blonde moustache or whisps growing at the sides of my ears. I love to use the razor around my eyebrows too, to help to give them shape as I hate plucking.
It helps make-up go on smoother and stay on for longer. I’ve also noticed my make-up isn’t as patchy by the end of the day because my skin is smoother.
The fuzz grows back exactly the same as it did years ago before I started dermaplaning
Is dermaplaning the same as using a razor?
Yeah, they’re pretty similar, but dermaplaning is a closer shave so it takes off the top layer of skin too. It helps my makeup stay on for longer, and look better, because it’s being put on smoother, less bumpy skin.
How often do you dermaplane?
I shave every few weeks. I could probably go for a month. The hair doesn’t grow any longer either; it seems to grow to the same length then just stops.
What razor do you use?
I used to use cheapo Amazon razors but recently I’ve been using the Estrid starter kit razor (for legs etc) and found out they do dermaplane razors too so I bought some for £4.95 for 3, and you get free delivery.
FUL Hair Conditioner Mask Treatment | It's a big 300ml tub
Why do you need a hair mask and how is it different from regular conditioner I hear you ask? Well, the FUL hair mask is different. It includes a pH-balanced formula to deeply condition your hair with super nourishing ingredients including shea butter and coconut oil.
If like me you use coconut oil after being in the sea, you know how much it helps reduce frizz, and softens your hair.
Fancy smooth hair? Get 20% off on fulondon.com – use my discount code AHOYBEAUTY20 to get this 300ml tub for £25.60 down from £32.
FUL Hair Conditioner Mask Treatment | It’s a big 300ml tub
Regular conditioner is used in the shower and is rinsed off after a few minutes. With this FUL hair mask, you shampoo your hair as usual but apply this treatment and leave it on – then rinse off after 10 minutes. This allows the hair to be properly soaked and reap the nourishing benefits.
Have I been using it the recommended way?
Unfortunately not, no. Who has time to have a shower, shampoo hair, get out, towel-dry hair, apply a hair mask, wait 10 minutes then get back in the shower and rinse?
I have however found a way to incorporate the mask into my hair care several times a week and can safely say, I’m impressed. I’m able to leave my hair wet so it dries naturally because the mask has calmed my frizz so much, I don’t need to blow dry it straight.
How do you use the mask treatment?
If I know I’m having a shower in an hour or so (maybe I’m about to work out) I’ll add a big blob throughout my hair from the middle down to the ends. I love using my tangle tweezer hair brush to comb it through – not touching the roots, making sure I get every last hair. Then I put it in a bun, or low pony and do whatever I need to. After an hour or so, I have a shower to rinse it out. Then I shampoo my hair but I don’t re-condition it, as it’s already conditioned enough.
The outcome is lovely shiny conditioned hair!
Fancy smooth hair? Get 20% off on fulondon.com – use my discount code AHOYBEAUTY20 to get this 300ml tub for £25.60 down from £32.
FUL Hair Conditioner Mask Treatment | luckily I work from home so I was able to apply and work at my desk!
What type of hair is it good for?
Mainly for dry/damaged but I’d say if yours needs some TLC, then go for it.
FUL Hair Conditioner Mask Treatment | this is my hair after using the mask, and then left dry after shampooing. Completely different to my usual random-curl-frizzy mess
Where can I buy it? How much is it?
Buy it from Fullondon.com for £32 – get 20% off with my discount code AHOYBEAUTY20 making it £25.60 for a whopping 300ml!
So far, I’ve used this twice a week and the tub is showing no signs of having any used! It’s a huge tub and one that’ll probably last for months.
I’ll keep updating this article with how much is left.
Facetheory is a UK-based skincare brand; Leaping Bunny & PETA approved. I’ve been using them for years, as being a bit lazy, I love it when a website makes it super easy to choose products right for you. I go for products to support with oily skin, acne and hyperpigmentation.
They have a ‘routine builder’ on their website which asks you a few questions and at the end, suggests several products. I did this, but I used it more of a guide. Once I knew the key products (moisturiser, vitamin c etc) I then looked and found my own favourites.
I’ve been using the Supergel moisturiser since 2019 but recently purchased more products, including some for my husband who has the opposite skin to me. Mine is oily, acne-prone and not very sensitive. His is very sensitive, dry and he has redness.
My new routine with Facetheory after painful fungal acne
Photo of my skin after holiday – painful bumps so I stopped all products and began with FaceTheory which has transformed my skin
After coming home from holiday, I had really sore skin. I haven’t been properly diagnosed, but I think I had fungal acne, caused by all the oils in the Elemis cleansing balm I was using to remove makeup 🙁
It caused such a big, painful flare up, I stopped using all products and investigated until I was 99% sure what my next steps were to be.
I cleaned out all products that contain anything that would aggravate the fungal acne (basically 90% of products) and purchased new products – the majority being from Facetheory.
Facetheory benefits – from their website facetheory.com. The products are super clean.
My favourite things about buying from Facetheory are:
most products don’t contain anything that’ll trigger fungal acne
all products are vegan and cruelty-free
prices are affordable (although there’s been a recent 2023 price increase – more on that below)
setting up subscriptions for my favourite products so I never run out, plus get a small discount
you get offers and discounts often in your inbox and accrue points for each order (4 points = £1, but they have tiers depending on how much you spend – the lowest is 2 points per £1)
my favourite Facetheory skincare products
My favourite Facetheory products to use on my oily, acne-prone skin
Vitamin C
Regena C30 Pro Vitamin C Serum with 30% Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (£34 although I pay less with subscription)
I use a small blob of this every morning before moisturiser. It contains 30% Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, to target dull and uneven skin, signs of ageing, inflammation and acne bacteria. 30% is quite high, so Facetheory also make a 20% version.
It’s reduced my hyperpigmentation especially on my forehead, and made my skin look more awake.
Regena Vitamin C serum – I use 2 drops in a morning
Regena Vitamin C serum – I use 2 drops in a morning
Moisturiser
Supergel Oil-free Moisturiser M3 for Oily and Acne-Prone Skin with Aloe Vera and Niacinamide (£16)
I absolutely love this moisturiser. It’s made for people with oily and acne-prone skin, but my husband uses it and he has very sensitive skin. He loves it as it’s “really thin, easily absorbed and doesn’t dry out my skin”. He’s bought his own tube now so I get mine back!
It contains Niacinamide which helps to reduce pore size. Salicylic acid helps congested skin without causing irritation or any redness. I use this moisturiser under SPF.
Facetheory Supergel moisturiser I use every morning. It’s super light-weight and slides into skin – no stickiness
Toner
Cera-C Pore Reducing Toner T1 with Niacinamide, Ceramides and Vitamin C (£15)
Next up is the toner, which has tons of goodies, including Niacinamide to balance oily skin and reduce pore size. It also contains Ceramides to help your skin retain moisture, Panthenol to absorb moisture, and Vitamin C to help fight breakouts and brightens skin.
I use this toner with a cotton pad. I use one side on half my face, then turn the cotton pad over and clean the other side of my face. I tip the bottle top vertically over the cotton pad, giving me about a pea-sized amount to work with. This is so I don’t go back over clean skin with the dirt from another area.
Facetheory cera c pore refining toner – this bottle was a free sample but I now buy the 200ml beast size
… plus I use the Freshening Face Wash C4 (£11) for a cleanser and Hylafecta 2% Hyaluronic Acid Serum S14 (£22), which aren’t on my subscription list, yet.
Face Wash
Freshening Face Wash C4, £11
I use this both in the morning and at night. It contains Green Tea Extract to detox and remove impurities, and Aloe Vera to soothe and clarify. It’s £11 and comes in a chunky 140ml glass bottle with an easy-to-use pump.
My full morning staple routine from L-R: face wash, toner, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, moisturiser
So basically my skincare is 90% covered with Facetheory. And my skin has never looked better for it.
What are the products like?
As mentioned above, I have 3 products on subscription I get every few months. I love them all as they’ve completely changed my skin.
My husband uses the same moisturiser as me (Supergel) and swears by it even though we’ve got completely different skin. His skin is very sensitive so he usually doesn’t use any skincare because they make his skin worse, but he’s been using Supergel for months now and has even branched out to use the Amil-C Whip M5 SPF 30 and another moisturiser, Aventhra Moisturiser M2.
Supergel moisturiser is very light so a pea-sized amount is able to glide over and cover your whole face.
My discount code
Through my account I get a friends and fam code. Use this link to get 20% off your first purchase (I also get points if you do this!)
I have several products on subscription so I was able to lock in the prices before the increase in early 2023. Some increases are a few pounds, but others have increased quite considerably.
Regena C30 Pro Vitamin C Serum with 30% Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, 30ml, was £26.99 in Dec 2022. I purchased it again a month later (Jan 2023) for £22.94 then again at the end of March for £28. It’s now £34 on the website. I get it for £22.94 as I locked-in this price as a subscription.
The Supergel moisturiser was £12.74 in Jan 2023, and is now £16. It doesn’t seem much but it’s still an increase of 25%.
If you’re looking to purchase from them, I’d suggest signing up for an account and signing up to their newsletter. They have offers going all the time, so you’ll be sure to bag a bargain if you keep an eye out.
Or use my code to get 20% off your first order (I also get points if you do this!)
I’m always nervous at trying a new exfoliator. They either break me out in spots because they’re too harsh, or make my oily skin worse. What I like about this Il Makiage exfoliator is that you can be as soft or as hard as you like with the scrubbing, depending on your skin. The tiny balls help clean your skin, but aren’t harsh, and are made of jojoba oil which is good for acne scars.
The bottle is a good size and has a funky flower pattern on the lid
What’s the Il Makiage exfoliator good for? What are the benefits?
According to Il Makiage website, the powder polish exfoliator:
gets rid of excess dead skin cells to…
…show new skin underneath which makes you look glowy
reduces uneven skin tone
frees up congestion
The same as any old exfoliator, right? The difference I found to this exfoliator was that afterwards, my face wasn’t a sore, hot mess. The tiny balls dissolve easily and quickly, so the rubbing isn’t harsh on your skin. Sometimes my skin is red raw when I’ve used exfoliators, especially to the sides of my nose where it’s sensitive. See the below pics straight away after using the Il Makiage exfoliator, where my skin looks its normal colour.
From the IlMakiage.com website at the time of writing
By removing the dead skin cells your skin (unsurprisingly) gets smoother. When you exfoliate, make-up (including foundation) stays on better as it’s got a smoother base to work with.
I exfoliate once every 4 days as part of my skin cycling routine. It’s a very important step to do in skincare, but don’t overdo it as it can irritate. I normally use Paula’s Choice on my skin as part of skin cycling day 2 ‘exfoliate’, but used this Il Makiage instead which got the job done.
This is probably a bit too much! I usually use a pea-sized amount
The Il Makiage Exfoliator contains Shea butter and Jojoba Oil which have good properties for use on your skin. They include:
Shea butter – boosts skin moisture – is anti-inflammatory which helps soothe skin problems, and has antioxidants to fight ageing.
Jojoba oil is great for acne/scaring/psoriasis/sunburn because of allthe antioxidants. It also contains copper and zinc which can treat hair loss
Have a look at the rest of the benefits on Ilmakiage.com.
What’s the texture like?
It’s creamy and has small jojoba balls that break up once you rub it into your skin – this helps with the exfoliation but isn’t too harsh unless you really go for it with scrubbing (I wouldn’t recommend if you have sensitive skin). You can see after using, my skin isn’t red or irritated which I sometimes get, so I’m really happy with this.
I rubbed it in for a minute, left it for a minute, then removed with a warm flannel.
It has small yellow balls which are great for exfoliating – they break up when smoothing on skin
Removing the powder polish gently with a warm flannel
Even straight away after removing, there’s no redness – it’s not harsh at all, sometimes exfoliators leave me red
straight away afterwards – super fresh & clean skin without no irritation. I leave it for at least 20 mins, remove, and apply moisturiser.
Where can I buy it and how much is it?
Buy it from Ilmakiage.com – remember to use discount code welcome10 for 10% off!
It’s £58 for 80ml, or £52.20 (10% off) when you subscribe.
It sounds pretty expensive, but it’ll probably last you a while. It lasted me 3 months, of using a small pea size twice a week.
You get UK free delivery on orders over £50, otherwise it’s £3.95.
Is Il Makiage good for ageing skin?
Yes! I’m 35 (nearly 36 shhhh) and I love using the foundation and concealer with the brushes. The brushes are soft so they don’t pull on my skin. The foundation and concealer aren’t too thick, so they’re easy to apply and they don’t settle in my fine lines, even when I go for a heavier look!
Foundation – the ‘woke up like this’ foundation contains ingredients: Vitamin E for anti-ageing benefits and hyaluronic acid for hydration, protection and filling wrinkles
Concealer – the ‘f*ck I’m flawless’ concealer is Oil-free, paraben-free & phthalate-free, enriched with hydrating & moisturising ingredients
See my thorough blogs on the Woke Up Like This foundation and F*ck I’m Flawless concealer. I have the primer also, but I don’t tend to use it as I’ve never liked primer. It always feels clogging, no matter what brand I use. That being said, I have nothing against the Il Makiage one, as it sets my make-up better – see my blog on the primer here.
Available from Ilmakiage.com – remember to use discount code welcome10 for 10% off!
Is Il Makiage a trustworthy brand?
They’re rated ‘Excellent’ on TrustPilot with over 66K reviews which is a pretty big plus.
They’ve got a huge following – 486K on Facebook, 16K Youtube subscribers, and 1.2M followers on Instagram. If you don’t believe all that because let’s be honest, they could have paid for them, it’s worthwhile searching on social media for trustworthy reviews. I’ve been using the brand for over a year, and have tried several of their products, all of which I like and most still use to this day. I first tried the foundation back in 2021 and still use it now after repurchasing myself, along with the concealer & brushes regularly.
Is Il Makiage exfoliator vegan and cruelty-free?
It’s cruelty-free – even featured on Peta:
https://crueltyfree.peta.org/company/il-makiage/
It’s unfortunately not vegan – it’s possibly due to the ingredient ‘lactose’ which is from milk.
The ingredients – it’s cruelty-free but not vegan
I hope you liked this review. The powder polish exfoliator is available on the Il Makiage website. Buy it from Ilmakiage.com – remember to use discount code welcome10 for 10% off!
Is the exfoliator fungal acne safe?
No, it isn’t – this is why I wouldn’t purchase the exfoliator.
If you’ve read my other blogs you’ll know I suffer from fungal acne (although it’s not been diagnosed by a professional) It was caused by too much oil in products I was using, mainly Elemis Cleansing Balm to remove makeup. Since then I’ve been obsessed with checking ingredients over at https://folliculitisscout.com. You copy in the ingredients, and it spits out a huge list of results.
The results for this exfoliator indicate 7 ingredients contain triggers for fungal acne (mainly oil which blocks pores):
If you don’t suffer, then the Il Makiage exfoliator is great. I didn’t notice it triggered my fungal acne as I was using it, and I used it for a few months (twice per week) until I’d used the whole bottle but I won’t re-buy just because I don’t want my skin to be unhappy again. Check out my Elemis blog if you want to see how my skin worsened from using it.
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I’ve incorporated skin cycling as my routine for a few months now. I decided to do a big skincare reset after getting home from my holiday in December where I experienced painful acne, caused (I’m 99% sure) by Elemis cleansing balm which triggered fungal-acne (although I haven’t been properly diagnosed).
My skin was red raw and covered in spots; some had white heads, others were just tiny painful bumps all over my forehead. Since I stopped using Elemis and reduced the number of products I use, my skin has completely changed, even before, after, and during my period when I’d normally get worse acne.
What is skin cycling?
It’s a night time routine where you use different products over 4 days. The goal with skin cycling is to improve your skin by:
reducing the number of products you are putting on your face
stopping overusing products that might be causing irritation
giving your skin time to breath after using harsh products, like retinol
Skin Cycling Routine – before and after
Photo of my skin after holiday.- painful bumps
This was my skin after stopping using the Elemis, and just starting the Malezia with Skin Cycling
This is my skin in April after using skin cycling routine for 4 months
What is an example of a skin cycling routine?
Skin cycling is a 4-day routine. If you start on a Monday, you will reset on Friday and start again.
Night 1 – exfoliate.
Night 2 – retinol
Nights 3 and 4 – moisturise.
I go into detail below what I do on each night, and also what my morning skincare routine looks like.
I use Malezia moisturiser after both nights following Exfoliating and Retinol
Night 1 – Exfoliate
Your first night is to exfoliate, which gets rid of all old and dead skin cells allowing products to get deeper into your skin and therefore work better.
This is the exfoliator I use – Paula’s Choice. It’s fantastic
My routine looks like this:
Remove make up.
Cleanse and tone skin. I use both Face Theory Freshening Face Wash C4 followed by Cera-C Pore Reducing Toner T1.
Exfoliate using only a few drops. I use Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant, which I find perfect on my oily and acne-prone skin. The day after using this product, my skin is GLOWING and spots are gone. I really love this product.
After 10 minutes, I finish with a moisturiser
Night 2 – Retinol
Retinols can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, by restoring plumpness. They can be harsh, so go easy with it – only 1 or 2 drops of a low concentration to start with. I use Pixi Botanical Collagen & Retinol Serum.
This is the retinol I use on Night 2 – Pixi Botanical Collagen Retinol Serum
My routine looks like this (the same as Night 1 apart from number 3)
Remove make up.
Cleanse and tone skin. I use both Face Theory Freshening Face Wash C4 followed by Cera-C Pore Reducing Toner T1.
Add a few Retinol drops, nabbing on gently. I use Pixi Botanical Collagen & Retinol Serum.
After 10 minutes, I finish with a moisturiser if my skin is feeling dry – I don’t always do this though.
Night 3 and 4 – Moisturise and recovery
After nights 1 and 2, your skin needs a break from the harsh chemicals, so nights 3 and 4 are for deep moisturising.
My routine looks like this:
Remove make up.
Cleanse and tone skin. I use both Face Theory Freshening Face Wash C4 followed by Cera-C Pore Reducing Toner T1.
Moisturise. I use Face Theory Supergel Oil-free Moisturiser M3 followed by a thicker moisturiser to keep everything in my skin – Malezia 5% Urea moisturiser.
My skin starting to improve after following skin cycling and using Malezia
Following day – start again, back to night 1 (unless you’re new to exfoliating/retinol, in which case I’d add on another recovery day to reduce any skin irritation).
How many products do you use in total during night skin cycling routine?
I use a total of 8 across the morning and evening but not using them all every day.
Every morning I use:
1x Cleanser. I use Face Theory Freshening Face Wash C4
1x Toner. I use Face Theory Cera-C Pore Reducing Toner T1.
1x Vitamin C. I use Face Theory Regena C30 Pro Vitamin C Serum with 30% Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
1x Hyaluronic Acid. I use Face Theory Hylafecta 2% Hyaluronic Acid Serum S14
1x Moisturiser. I use Face Theory Supergel Oil-free Moisturiser M3
1x SPF. I use La Roche-Posay Anthelios 400 SPF50.
Night routine over the 4 nights includes:
1x Retinol. I use Pixi Botanical Collagen & Retinol Serum.
1x Exfoliator. I use Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant
1x Moisturiser. I use Malezia 5% Urea moisturiser plus sometimes the other one by Face Theory mentioned above if I feel my skin is needing even more moisture.
Do you moisturise every night with skin cycling?
I do personally, yes. After nights 1 and 2 of exfoliating and using retinol, I wait at least 10 minutes for the product to settle before moisturising.
I’m using 5% Urea moisturiser from Malezia as part of my routine. It’s one of my favourite skincare products. See my full review here.
How do you apply moisturiser when skin cycling?
If I’m using more than one moisturiser, I use the lightest/thinnest first followed by the thickest. This helps keep all products in your skin.
I use a pea-sized amount, and warm up for a few seconds between my clean fingers. Then I gently rub across my skin, patting the sensitive and thin skin around my eyes.
Does it change your morning routine?
No, skin cycling is for night time only. I don’t tend to change my morning routine no matter what day it is or what my skin is like.
My morning routine looks like this:
Cleanse skin. I use Face Theory Freshening Face Wash C4.
I then go in with a few drops of Hyaluronic Acid and Vitamin C. I’m using both Face Theory Hylafecta 2% Hyaluronic Acid Serum S14 and Regena C30 Pro Vitamin C Serum with 30% Ethyl Ascorbic Acid.
Moisturise and bronzer – I use Face Theory Supergel Oil-free Moisturiser M3 mixed together with a bronzer. The bronzer I’m using is Indeed Labs Nanobronze Bronzing Drops. A tiny amount is all you’ll need.
I finish with SPF. I’m currently using La Roche-Posay Anthelios 400 SPF50.
Does skin cycling routine actually work?
Yes. I will NEVER not use this routine to simplify my skincare. Not only has it massively improved my skin, it’s stopped me over-using products which has made it easier on my bank balance as I’m buying less!
Can you use face masks when skin cycling?
Yes of course! But if they are exfoliating, use them on night one instead of your normal exfoliator so you don’t over-exfoliate your skin. I personally use Sand and Sky pink clay (and Aldi’s £3 version!).
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When I was on holiday towards the end of 2022, I had painful, sore acne. Acne I’ve never had before. It was very sore, all over my face, with painful small-to-large bumps that didn’t have a head.
this was my forehead after returning from holidayphoto of my cheek with painful acne
I haven’t been diagnosed properly by a doctor, but I’m pretty sure I had fungal acne caused by the ingredients in the Elemis cleansing balm I was using on holiday to remove my make up. The ingredients contains 13 ‘triggers’ causing inflammation to my skin, including several types of oil.
Once I stopped using it and included other products into my routine, the fungal acne went away. I started using Malezia’s moisturiser and FaceTheory products together, and stopped using anything that contained triggers including the Elemis balm. The acne started to go, slowly.
Malezia moisturiser for fungal acne
When I got back from my holiday, I did a lot of research. That’s how I found out about fungal acne and what it looks/feels like, and why I think I had it. Malezia 5% Urea Moisturizer is 100% fungal acne safe so it doesn’t contain any triggers that sooo many products do (such as Elemis, mentioned above). It’s main (key) ingredient is urea.
What is urea and why is it so important?
Urea is a molecule found in your skin and improves the barrier function.
Urea is one of those magical unicorn ingredients with the ability to both hydrate AND mildly exfoliate. It’s so effective as a hydrator, in fact, that it outperforms vaseline in some studies.
It’s obviously fungal-acne safe, proven by the website tool I always use when checking out ingredients:
fungal acne results of malezia urea moisturiser on folliculitisscout.com – all safe!
Is Malezia vegan and cruelty-free?
Our products are vegan and we don’t test on animal (or have a desire to). Additionally, none of our suppliers have tested on animals in the past 5 years. We are in the process of getting leaping bunny certified.
My skin is SO much better now I’ve stopped using any products containing fungal-acne triggers. I use this moisturiser at night before bed. It’s the nicest, thickest moisturiser I’ve ever used. It doesn’t smell strong, and glides on my skin like a dream. I’m absolutely loving it, but I’d have to for the price it takes to be delivered from the US (more on that below).
This was my skin after stopping using the Elemis, and just starting the Malezia back in January’23:
This was my skin after stopping using the Elemis, and just starting the Malezia
My skin after using for a few months (a few angles)
I bought my first Malezia at the start of January and these were taken last week – so around 2.5 months PLUS the week before my period which is usually when I breakout:
This was my skin after using Malezia for a few months – pic 1/4 – still have hyperpigmentation on my forehead but massively reduced
This was my skin after using Malezia for a few months – pic 2/4
This was my skin after using Malezia for a few months including makeup – pic 3/4 This was my skin after using Malezia for a few months – pic 4/4 including makeup
So as you can see, from a few months of using it, my skin has changed massively. I no longer have larger red sore spots, or smaller bumps across my forehead.
I use a pea-sized amount 4-5 times a week, before bed.
Malezia tube key
It cost £3 and well worth it – this little gadget helps you get every last drop of liquid out of the tube. It’s made of aluminum and feels high quality – never thought I’d say that about a tube key. It’s heavy and gets the job done. I’ve also used it on toothpaste.
Malezia tube keyMalezia tube key to get out every last drop
How much is it and where can I buy it?
Malezia 5% Urea Moisturiser is £20 + delivery, which if you’re in the UK, is unfortunately more expensive than the product.
I ordered back in January and it cost me a total of $42.82 ($18.46 was delivery) then my last order (end of March) cost me £62.70, made up of £24 in delivery charges which was probably due to the weight as I ordered 2x bottles plus the tube key (total £43).
After using it for a few months and being really happy with the results, I reached out to become an affiliate of Malezia. I have a discount code you can use, ‘Rachael’ which gets you 20% off everything. Buy it from their website, https://malezia.com/
This order cost me £62.70 including delivery – 2 bottles, tube key and delivery
Delivery from ordering to receiving in the UK took 11 days. It was posted the day after I ordered.
Delivery charges are expensive, but it’s worth it in my opinion for the product, as the quality is amazing & it lasts months. I’ve used products much more expensive than this so when I look at it from that angle, it doesn’t bother me so much to spend £62.30 on 2x bottles (plus a tube key I won’t need to buy again).
After using it for a few months and being really happy with the results, I reached out to become an affiliate of Malezia. I have a discount code you can use, ‘Rachael’ which gets you 20% off everything. Buy it from their website, https://malezia.com/
The code really works:
malezia discount code Rachael for 20% off but you have to go through my aff link
Any negatives?
Yeah – they haven’t put me off buying, as I’ve just reordered 2x more but YES there were a few things I didn’t like:
1) The tube looked half full. The bottle came full and intact, but when I squeezed it, the size reduced massively! It made me think they hadn’t filled it enough. I emailed them about this, and #2.
2) The top rim is yellow, which doesn’t look pleasant and it didn’t come with a silver/foil-type cover. It made me think of gone-off moisturiser you’ve had in your draw for 2 years.
I emailed Malezia about these 2 issues:
My email:
Hi there, I’ve just received so thank you! I wanted to check, should the bottle be open or have a seal? It’s come without a seal, yellow around the rim & when I’ve taken out a pea-sized amount, the packaging has massively gone in so it looks like it’s already half used
Malezia replied within an impressive 5 hours. They explain all points below which I’ve copied in, however, a summary is that yes there is air in the bottle but the weight of product is correct; it doesn’t need a seal as the bottle is airtight, and the yellow staining isn’t rust but epoxy which is harmless.
Malezia email reply to my issues
I love how they replied straight away, but these points are also in their FAQs on the website meaning they are popular (negative) questions. When I opened the product, I was initially disappointed – not 1 but 2 things I wanted to question. Both ‘problems’ have been sorted with context, but it ruined the experience for me. That being said, it didn’t stop me from re-ordering, although the next time I did, I ordered 2x bottles due to the cost of delivery, which takes me to problem #3.
3) Delivery charges to the UK is more than the product!
My last order cost £62.70 where delivery cost was £24 of that. Hence why I bought 2 at £20 each which should last me at least 4-5 months.
I don’t like to moan but these things really effected my experience in a negative way. I was excited at getting the delivery but felt deflated as I had to email and ask about the problems I found. Having those questions as FAQs tells me they’re popular questions from customers, so if I felt a little disappointed, there are others that did too – so it’s something Malezia could look into at fixing properly. That being said, they’re a small business doing right in the world, so if they don’t fix these problems then that’s fine by me – I’ll keep buying anyway!
After using it for a few months and being really happy with the results, I reached out to become an affiliate of Malezia. I have a discount code you can use, ‘Rachael’ which gets you 20% off everything. Buy it from their website, https://malezia.com/
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After using Sand and Sky’s Australian pink clay for some time (which is around £36 per 60ml – see my blog here) I decided to give this a try after spotting it in Aldi for £2.99 for 60ml.
Lacure Aldi Pink Clay mask – box and brush
I’ve recently been suffering with fungal acne (I think – not properly diagnosed) on my forehead and lots of spots around my chin, so I’ve been very careful about what I’ve been using on my skin as I don’t want to irritate it. I’ve reduced the number of products I’m using down to 5 in total (not all on the same day either) so after buying, I checked the ingredients online – it was an impulse purchase but not an expensive one!
Ingredients – what’s in it?
I use https://folliculitisscout.com to check the ingredients of beauty products. It’s really easy – you simply copy and paste the list of ingredients into the website, and it says whether or not it contains fungal-acne triggers.
I’m not sure why but the list of ingredients isn’t on the Aldi website. I found it on a random website, https://incidecoder.com. It shows that none ingredients are a fungal acne trigger:
Ingredients checked for fungal acne triggers on folliculitisscout.com
I also use another website, not just for fungal-acne: skincarisma.com checks against a load of things including alcohol, paraben, sulfate, silicone etc.
Investigating the ingredients on Skincarisma.com: https://www.skincarisma.com/
It shows Lacura Pink Clay mask is good for as it contains:
Dry skin (glycerin, Butylene Glycol)
Anti-aging (Citric Acid)
Sensitive skin (Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder)
But bad for:
Dry skin (contains alcohol)
Allergins (Limonene – perfume)
It looks very creamy
Is it cruelty-free and vegan?
It says it’s cruelty-free on the Aldi website. Nothing about it being vegan unfortunately.
It’s cruelty-free according to the Aldi website
It’s slightly less thick than Sand and Sky’s pink clay mask, but no difference in quality (in my opinion)
I decided to go ahead with it, even though it contains a few naughties (alcohol for one). My main concern was fungal-acne triggers, and as it doesn’t have any, I went ahead.
When I was in the store, I read the box which states:
draws out impurities…. refines pores, contains witch hazel
according to the box
I really wanted a mask to clear my skin – to give it a really deep down gentle cleanse.
As you can see from this photo, my forehead has a very uneven skin tone plus several bumps (which I think is fungal acne). I also get lots of black heads on my nose and chin I want to clear out.
It feels lovely and creamy to apply but isn’t runny so it stays on your skinThe brush you get within the box allows you to make a neat job applying the mask10 minutes later – lots of drying, and you can see the pores on my nose being cleaned outLots of little bumps on my forehead are being cleaned out at this pointIt dried in just over 13 minutes and was flakey
How long do you leave it on for and how do you remove?
The box advises you to leave it on for 10 minutes then rinse off with a warm flannel. I did as instructed. Compared to the expensive Sand & Sky mask, it was a lot harder to remove. With Sand & Sky, I used to remove it in the shower and it took less than 30 seconds with warm water. This took me around 5 minutes. It was hard to remove and stubborn, so it took me longer as I was being extra gentle with my skin.
I used a smooth, soft, warm damp flannel to remove the mask It took me over 5 minutes to remove as it was quite stubbornThis was my skin BEFORE using the mask – you can see an oily foreheadAFTER using the mask – a different light (sorry) BUT you can see my skin looks brighter and less congested My skin afterwards was a little red from getting the mask off and my fungal acne on my forehead wasn’t happy and quite raw
This was my skin the day after – it’s bright, slightly red on my nose but my skin is SO much clearer. I’ve always got red on the sides of my nose, so don’t let that put you off.
The mask has massively reduced the bumps on my forehead and it looks much less oily:
The day after – my skin is so much clearer – still have acne, but it’s less red and the bumps on my forehead are reduced. I’ve always got red on the sides of my nose!
What’s your review? Would you use the Lacura mask again?
Yes I would absolutely use it again. It cleared out my skin and got rid of my congested areas. It hasn’t made the bumps on my forehead any worse. I’m 100% going to use this as part of my routine, probably using once a week.
The pot looks like it’ll last 6-8 times so for £2.99 it’s extremely cost-effective. I’ve reviewed Sand & Sky’s mask (retails around £36 for 60ml and also the pink clay mask by T Zone)
If you’re unsure, check out the reviews on the Aldi website – there are currently 75 reviews with an average of 4.8/5!
How much is it?
It’s £2.99 from Aldi for 60ml. You can get it from the Aldi website + £2.95 delivery.
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I recently decided to try a new makeup remover from my usual Body Shop camomile cleansing butter – Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm.
A nourishing cleansing balm that melts away makeup, daily pollutants and impurities for a soft and glowing complexion.
I’m extremely wary of new products like this, especially ones where reviewers describe them as ‘melts in your fingers’ as I have very oily skin, so the last thing my skin needs is more oil.
A close up – Elemis Cleansing Balm for oily, acne prone skin
With a face full of makeup, I went in. I used about a large-pea sized amount then rubbed it together before gently rubbing it all over my face. I always start with my skin first, then move to the heavier makeup areas, such as my eyes. I don’t want to rub mascara all over my face if I scrubbed my eyes before my skin.
half way through after some gentle rubbing in
The smell is gorgeous – I’ve been to spas that use Elemis and it completely took me back to that calm, tranquil state. It’s a beautiful smell but not overpowering – I don’t like strong smells in face products.
distracted by the smell – it’s so nice
How much does the Elemis balm cost?
I bought it from Elemis.com for £15 for 50ml. This price is £12 down from the usual £27 (yes I was ‘forced’ into purchasing by a tiktok video).
Is the balm cruelty-free and vegan?
Nope to both questions unfortunately, so I won’t be repurchasing.
Honest review?
I love it – really impressed. It took off my waterproof mascara and heavy foundation easily, left my skin feeling super smooth, smelling gorgeous, and the next day I didn’t notice a change in my skin’s oiliness or acne.
my skin afterwards – clean, not red or irritated at all
a close up of my skin after using – not red, just lovely smelling skin
UPDATE 26 March 2023 – had to stop using the balm!
I originally bought this and started using it in October. In December on my holidays, my skin turned for the worst:
Sore skin 6 weeks after using Elemis
Elemis caused me acne
My skin turned sore and very spotty. This was on holiday. I did a lot of research and found out that I probably had (undiagnosed but 99% sure I’ve got it) fungal acne.
Ingredients – so much oil!
I won’t include the ingredients list (as it’s really long and will make my blog huge) but I’ve copied them into a website I’ve been using since December, called folliculitisscout.com. You copy and paste the ingredients into the website, and a checker tells you if any are bad for fungal acne. Find the full ingredients list here: https://uk.elemis.com/pro-collagen-cleansing-balm-50g.html
Elemis balm has 13 triggers of fungal acne. This is not good news. The below screenshot shows 13 ingredients are a trigger for fungal acne, starting with Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis on the left (in red).
https://folliculitisscout.com/ shows how many ingredients of the Elemis balm trigger fungal acne – this is just a few, in total it has 13 triggers
I’m still using it on my eyes to get mascara off, but not putting it anywhere near my skin and it’s improved SO MUCH.
This is my skin mid-January after using a mask. You can see the difference in only 6 weeks from not using Elemis anymore
I’ve also started doing skin cycling which has helped my skin routine by simplifying the products I’m using, and restricting how often I’m using them.
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